Blog: Vermentino di Gallura | Grape variety

The white wine appellation Vermentino di Gallura is the first DOCG of the island of Sardinia and includes the wines from a large area at the northern end of the island. In 1975 the wines received DOC status, followed by DOCG status in September 1996. The production area covers the entire north-eastern corner of the island of Sardinia, making it surprisingly large for a DOCG (significantly larger than the area of Alghero, Vernaccia di Oristano or Malvasia di Bosa combined). The border runs more or less exactly along the Olbia-Tempio province, an area generally considered to be Gallura (the dialect Gallurese is still spoken there today). In the west, the southern border of the production area meets the river Coghinas, makes a slight bend around the hills of 'Monti di Ala' to reach the east coast near Posada.

As the title obviously indicates, the Vermentino di Gallura wines are mainly made from the Vermentino vine, which must contain at least 95%. The remaining 5% can be supplemented with 'altri vitigni' as other suitable and authorized grape varieties of the region. Sometimes one can find the addition that complementary grapes of the province of Sassari are also allowed, a reference to the fact that Sardinia once consisted of only four administrative areas: Oristano, Cagliari, Nuro and Sassari. The registered province of Olbia-Tempio did not exist until 2005 and until then was distinguished only by its Gallura dialect.

Vermentino is gaining more and more importance in Sardinia and some of the ampelographic researches aimed at have shown that the history of this grape variety is much more complex than previously thought. Most of the studies assume that the grape variety is of Italian origin, with possible origins in the northwest of the country - in Liguria. Further research has shown that the grape variety is also widespread in the southern French provinces, such as Provence and Languedoc-Roussillon. It is also important to mention the distribution of the grape variety on the island of Corsica.

Corsica is located directly north of Sardinia, the two islands are divided by the Strait of Bonifacio - which covers only a few kilometers. Before our geological age, Corsica and Sardinia were one island, even their flags bear the same coat of arms which shows a moor wearing a headscarf. The origin of Vermentino could just as well be in Sardinia, in the north of Italy or in the south of France. There is also increasing evidence that Vermentino could be of Spanish origin, although the variety is almost unknown there. If this theory is correct, the grape variety would have started its triumphal march from Spain to Sardinia centuries ago.

Whatever the origin of Vermentino, the grape variety is rapidly becoming the most important white wine variety on the island and could become the wine of the future in Sardinia. The classic Vermentino di Gallura DOCG is a wine of fresh, straw yellow color with subtle greenish reflections. On the nose, the wines are delicate and reminiscent of white flowers. On the palate it is refreshing, well balanced and of discreet acidity with a touch of minerality. Heavier Vermentino examples are excellent food companions, for example, with chicken or fish dishes, while the lighter variants from higher vineyards are ideal with seafood. - Gerardo [TS06/22]