Das italienische Weindepot

Blog: Lugana | Classic

Lugana crossed the borders of its homeland for the first time thanks to a certain Mr. Agello. This was neither a winemaker nor a wine producer, but a fearless airplane pilot. One was in the middle of fascism, and the editors-in-chief of the daily newspapers had been politely asked to order their best correspondents to Desenzano del Garda, because from this town Agello tried to break the world speed record, which he even succeeded in doing once. But since Agello, like any self-respecting legendary pilot, smashed more engines than records, the journalists had plenty of free time on their hands. They met at the Hotel Barchetta and quenched their thirst from the barrels stacked at the entrance.

When there is nothing to report, a competent reporter invents something, if only to prove to his editors that his expenses are correct. And here the 'news' was just at the door, or rather in the glass, especially for the correspondent of the Turin daily 'La Stampa', who had discovered some fundamental truths: Often, just like Nebbiolo in the Langhe, the white Lugana grapes are harvested in October; left in the barrels, as was customary at the time, the must fermented a second time and turned into a tasty sparkling wine that the locals called 'Torbiolino' (roughly: turbidity) because it was still a bit cloudy from the malolactic fermentation; moreover, you could drink quite a bit of it without having a hangover the next day.

'But already a few meters outside its native borders, the Lugana is no longer a Lugana' explains to us the director of the Protective Consortium of Wines of the Province of Brescia, wine expert of this appellation and thorough connoisseur of Lugana wine. Already more than forty years ago the first research results on Lugana were published by Dr. Michele Vescia regarding the peculiarity of the Trebbiano di Lugana grape and the resulting wine.

An illustrious group sits in a small room in the restaurant 'Vecchia Lugana': the mayor of Sirmione, the actual 'capital' of this wine (Lugana is a district of Sirmione), the director of the protection consortium and seven of the most famous producers and journalists who first ask for reasons for the current popularity of the wine. The discussion about the past of Lugana is heated: land was bought, vines were planted and capital was invested in a wine that until recently was drunk only by the locals and German vacationers on Lake Garda. Sure, it is strange that these white grapes ripen so late, while in the neighborhood the harvest of Friulano grapes begins already at the end of August. Moreover, this vine is quite capricious: a bountiful harvest is followed by a bad harvest. So it becomes understandable why this wine also pleases red wine drinkers: well-made Lugana has a lot of structure and a high content of extracts - amazing for this hypocritical wine, which is thought to be light and short-lived.

It is also surprising that the wine appeals to young people. We are told the story of two young men who came to the cellar of a local producer and asked for Lugana. The seller - sure that the two would not have a cent in their pockets - called the owner. He sheepishly asked them if they knew how much the wine cost and how many bottles they wanted to buy. 'Eighteen boxes...' replied one '... because that's the wine for our parties'. Of course, this is just an anecdote, but it is revealing regarding the taste of young people: as soon as they find a pleasant wine that they instinctively 'understand', they buy and drink it. The relatively high acidity of Lugana also makes it very suitable for sparkling wine production. It is a refined variety of that Torbiolino which was drunk in the thirties. Lugana producers claim that it is an honest Italian spumante that has not imitated anything and does not tolerate any sugaring. - Gerardo



Shop: Lugana
´Le Creete´ · Lugana DOC 2022, Ottella, Venetien

Le Creete · Lugana DOC 2022, Ottella

Ottella, Veneto
€ 16,95
22,60 €/L
Lugana DOC 2023, Ca' Lojera, Lombardei

Lugana DOC 2023, Ca' Lojera

Ca' Lojera, Lombardy
€ 12,95
17,27 €/L
´Molceo´ · Lugana Riserva DOC 2020, Ottella, Venetien

Molceo · Lugana Riserva DOC 2020, Ottella

Ottella, Veneto
€ 24,95
33,27 €/L
´Geschenk: Lugana Ca' Lojera´ · 3x Lugana (3er Geschenkbox), Ca' Lojera, Lombardei

Geschenk: Lugana Ca' Lojera · 3x Lugana (3er Geschenkbox), Ca' Lojera

Ca' Lojera, Lombardy
€ 40,50
18,00 €/L
Lugana Superiore DOC 2020, Ca' Lojera, Lombardei

Lugana Superiore DOC 2020, Ca' Lojera

Ca' Lojera, Lombardy
€ 18,95
25,27 €/L
´Bulgarini Klassiker´ · 1x Lugana, 1x Chiaretto, 1x Rosso Bruno (3er Geschenkbox), Bulgarini Fausto, Lombardei

Bulgarini Klassiker · 1x Lugana, 1x Chiaretto, 1x Rosso Bruno (3er Geschenkbox), Bulgarini Fausto

Bulgarini Fausto, Lombardy
€ 38,95
17,31 €/L