Blog: Montepulciano | Grape variety

Montepulciano vs. Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Montepulciano - that's the wine from southern Tuscany, from the little town of Montepulciano! This is how many conversations on this topic begin. The important Adriatic grape variety Montepulciano is often confused with the town of the same name in southern Tuscany. For the Tuscan producers of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, this has become such a nuisance that they have gone to great lengths to avoid the easily confused name. Tuscan Nobile di Montepulciano, however, does not contain a drop of the Montepulciano grape variety, but is almost predominantly made from the Sangiovese grape variety. We would like to take a closer look here at the much underestimated potential of the Adriatic grape variety Montepulciano.

The (unknown) potential
While the relevant literature on Nebbiolo (Barolo, Barbaresco...) and other grape varieties such as Sangiovese (Chianti, Brunello...) contains almost endless material, the Montepulciano grape variety is rather quiet. Occasionally a pitying reference is made to a farmhouse wine, but it would be fatal to conclude from this that the quality of the grape is mediocre. The opposite is the case, at least when this grape variety is cultivated appropriately, but this also applies to all other grape varieties. With careful vineyard care, limited yields, optimal weather conditions and a lucky hand, one can discover the enormous potential of a great, indigenous wine of the Adriatic. An indication of this is also the fact that for decades his wine has been in great demand as an enhancer for weak reds from central and northern Italy.

The suppliers are mainly cooperatives and do not necessarily sell their top qualities, if they have them. Until now, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo has often appeared as a cheap mass-produced wine, with huge cooperatives behind it, some with up to 10,000 members. All this may have been necessary at a time when wine was consumed like beer, but that time is over. All these impressions take the focus away from one of Italy's best red wine potentials, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, which also includes Rosso Piceno and Rosso Conero, which are predominantly made from Montepulciano grapes.

The properties
The area of origin and distribution of the Montepulciano grape variety is in the areas around Chieti in Abruzzo and in the Ascoli Piceno area in southern Marche, i.e. mainly on the Adriatic coast. It is cultivated on south-facing slopes at altitudes of up to 500-600 meters, with the best results expected at altitudes of around 300 meters. Budding and berry ripening is late, suitable for good sites with light, calcareous soils. The grapes are medium-sized to cylindrical, with loose berries. The berry is medium-sized, oval, black-violet, fragrant, thick-skinned.

The thick skins produce an enormous amount of color when ripe. The wine is full-bodied, robust, velvety, full, with low acidity and a dark ruby red color, slightly tannic when young. Suitable for longer ageing, then soft, fine and balanced. Some Montepulciano wines can be drunk very young, i.e. just six months after the harvest. However, most winegrowers store their Montepulciano in wooden barrels for a full twelve months. The ageing period in large or small oak barrels is even extended for large growths. This gives the wine more finesse and complexity.

When it comes to wine, wine drinkers are mainly interested in the alcohol content, but polyphenols are also found in wine, especially in red wine. This is due to the production process, as polyphenols come from the grape skins. The thick-skinned grapes in particular are optimal suppliers of polyphenols. - Gerardo [TS01/24]